Friday, May 26, 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 3 On YouTube

Episode 3 of my Love At First Scent series is now on YouTube, so you can watch it either by clicking above or going to the YouTube site (please click here). In this instalment I covered the brand new Oud Minerale from Tom Ford, Aromatics Elixir Premier Edition Prestige from Clinique, Flower Eau De Lumiere from Kenzo, the beautiful Naias from Sammarco and Ambre Royal from Ormonde Jayne. Can you tell which one was my favourite?

The original video is still on Facebook (click here), which is where you'll find the comments left by viewers during the live stream.


Friday, May 19, 2017

Persolaise Sixty Second Scents: CK All from Calvin Klein (Alberto Morillas & Harry Fremont; 2017)

Do we need another flanker to CK One? Turns out that we do. Here's my Sixty Second Scents review of the brand new CK All, put together by Alberto Morillas and Harry Fremont. To watch the video on the YouTube site, please click here.

Oh, and a quick reminder: if you're free at around 5 pm (UK time) on Sunday - Friday 21st May - please tune in to my Facebook page (click here) for the next instalment of Love At First Scent.


Thursday, May 18, 2017

Live Coverage Of 2017 Fragrance Foundation UK Awards - But Will It Be Twitter Or Facebook?

By the time this post pops up I'll be on the way to London for tonight's Fragrance Foundation UK Awards ceremony. I hope to bring you live coverage of the event, but as I write these words, I don't know if I'll be using Facebook Live or Twitter. My preference would be the former, but it requires a strong mobile data signal, so if the technology lets me down, I'll revert to Twitter and the #TFFAwardsUK hashtag (see the widget below). Whatever happens, I'm sure you'll all find out who the winners are.

And speaking of Facebook Live, please joint me for the next instalment of Love At First Scent this Sunday, 21st May, at around 5 pm UK time. You should be able to watch it on my Facebook page (please click here).


Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Coming On Sunday: Love At First Scent Episode 3

You have been told

All being well, this Sunday, 21st May 2017, at around 5 pm UK time, I hope to broadcast another Facebook Live stream: the third episode of my Love At First Scent series. One of the goodies I'm hoping to unwrap is an exciting new release from Clinique. And if the postal service doesn't let me down, I should also be able to present the latest Private Blend from Tom Ford. Fingers crossed! I hope you can all make it. (UPDATE: The Private Blend has arrived... and it's all I can do to stop myself from spraying it!)

While I'm in social media promotion mode, I should also mention that I hope to bring you live coverage of Thursday night's Fragrance Foundation UK Awards. For more info, please look out for a post that's scheduled to pop up tomorrow (ie Thursday) at 10 am UK time.


Friday, May 12, 2017

Persolaise Review: Azurée D'Or from Estée Lauder (2017)

It's hard not to succumb to a sense of ennui at the interminable parade of flankers presented to us by mainstream brands these days. But when a company leaves a gap of almost 50 years between a perfume's initial release and the appearance of its first bona fide follow-up, you can't help but experience a measure of curiousity. Cue: Azurée D'Or, the brand new companion to Azurée, which has been in Estée Lauder's catalogue since 1969. (Okay, strictly speaking, we did have a coconut-heavy, limited edition in 2007, but that was very short-lived and can probably be pushed to one side for the sake of today's argument.) A span of almost half a century provides a compelling opportunity to consider how certain scent codes have changed. In other words: how do we alter the style of a late 60s leather composition to bring it in line with contemporary tastes? In this case, the answer would seem to be: flush the toilet.

Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 2 Is Now On YouTube

Last Friday's episode of Love At First Scent is now on YouTube, so you can watch it either by clicking above or going to the YouTube site (please click here). I had great fun with this particular broadcast, not least when we touched on the subject of Bat from Zoologist and I got some chuckle-raising comments from viewers. Amongst the other perfumes I sniffed were: Persian Saffron from Zegna, Gelsomini Di Capri from Carthusia and the gorgeous new Ylang Ylang from E Coudray.

The original video is still on Facebook (click here), which is where you'll find the comments left by viewers during the live stream.


Thursday, May 4, 2017

Persolaise Sixty Second Scents: Mon Guerlain From Guerlain (Thierry Wasser; 2017) + Facebook Live Reminder

Next up in my series of Sixty Second Scents reviews is one of the most anticipated releases of the year, Thierry Wasser's Mon Guerlain for Guerlain. To watch the video on the YouTube site, please click here.

And if you're free at around 3 pm (UK time) tomorrow - Friday 5th May - please tune in to my Facebook page (click here) for the next instalment of Love At First Scent.


Wednesday, May 3, 2017

In The Mood For Summer? - Persolaise On Feelunique

I know it doesn't exactly feel like summer down here along the south coast of England, but hopefully warmer weather is on its way... so if you're looking for scented, sunny inspiration, please check out my new, holiday-inspired piece on Feelunique. Click here to read it.


Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 1 On YouTube + Next Facebook Live Is This Friday!

The Facebook Live broadcast I streamed on Friday is now on YouTube, so you can watch it right here (see above) or if you prefer to watch it on the YouTube page, please click here. I managed to cover quite a few scents, including the new Oud Essentiel from Guerlain, as well as Andy Tauer's Hyacinth And A Mechanic, which forms part of his intriguing Story trio of fragrances. You'll have to watch the video to find out why I say "intriguing"...

The video is still on Facebook, so you could watch it right there, of course, especially if you'd like to see the comments and discussion it generated. Click here to be taken to my Facebook page.

Technology and gremlins permitting, this Friday will see me deliver another Facebook Live broadcast, this time at around 3:00 pm (UK time). I wasn't planning to do the next one quite so soon, but I'll explain why I've changed my mind during the broadcast.

Hope to see you there,


Thursday, April 27, 2017

Capturing The Scent Of War + Facebook Live Reminder!

I imagined I was walking in a town, partly destroyed by the war, with some fires burning, but maybe also still with some trees and some flowers around. And I thought it must be very emotional to walk through your own town if it has been destroyed, with the odours of what reminds you of life and what shows you the effects war.
A few months ago, when I caught up with Jean-Christophe Hérault (Hot Cologne, Cuir Impertinent, Florabotanica) at the London launch of Boucheron's new La Collection range of 'exclusive' scents, we had a fascinating chat about the struggle for originality, the pressures faced by young perfumers and, most intriguingly, his recent work at the Institut Du Monde Arabe. To read my account of our encounter, please click on this link to Basenotes.

Finally, please try to tune in to my Facebook Live broadcast on Friday 28th April at around midday, UK time - technology permitting! - for the first instalment (should I call it my pilot episode?) of Love At First Scent. To watch it, you'll have to go to the Persolaise page on Facebook (please click here) and 'Like' it. 

Hope to see you then,


Monday, April 24, 2017

Heads Up: Persolaise On Facebook Live Friday 28th April 2017 & In The First Issue Of Tauer Magazine

image: Andy Tauer

The realm of scent is probably the most enigmatic territory in which the Ape and the Angel meet: it somehow manages to be both entirely primal and entirely cerebral. It is a field of creation in which precision, technology and abstract intellect are employed to elicit inexplicable emotions, to grasp at desires, to cast light on shadows of memories.

A few weeks ago, the Zurich-based perfumer Andy Tauer launched the first issue of what he hopes will be a regular customer magazine in which he'll publish thoughts and views on the world of scent-creation. I was very fortunate to be asked to contribute an article to the debut edition, a few lines of which you can read above. The entire magazine is now available online to all, so if you'd like to read it, please click here. I do urge you to take a look at it, not just because I'd love it if you read my piece, but also because of Tauer's own account of a recent trip to Saudi Arabia, which sparked a particularly interesting upcoming release.

Whilst I'm in self-promotion mode, I'd also like to say - with a massive gulp of trepidation - that I'm planning to broadcast a Facebook Live video on this Friday, 28th April 2017, at around 12:00 pm UK time. Of course, the entire scheme could be derailed by dodgy technology, or a nasty cold or a whole host of other, unexpected developments. But all being well, I shall be in front of my camera on Friday, for the first episode of a new venture I'm calling Love At First Scent. The video will be broadcast through my Persolaise Perfumes page, so if you don't already know where it is, please click here. I do hope you'll be able to join me on Friday!


Friday, April 21, 2017

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter: January to March 2017 [part 1]

Here's a new Twitter mini-review round-up, this time covering the first three months of 2017.

Colonia Quercia from Acqua Di Parma (2016)*
Brave trying to do a mossy note. Linked with fruit-citrus aspects, it works well. Rather burly & saturnine.

Blossom Love from Amouage (2017)*
Hard-headed florals & mosses. Tough to find the love here. An unyielding quality at odds with the idea of blossoms.

Lilac Love from Amouage (2016)*
Confident retro chypre, with greens, lilacs, rose, patchouli & cacao. Maybe touch too loud, but likeable nonetheless.

Roaring Radcliff from Penhaligon's (Daphné Bugey; 2016)*
Promising, dry, earthy tobacco, linked with rose and cool spices. A pleasing combo, but fades too quickly.

Thursday, April 13, 2017

Persolaise Sixty Second Scents - Eau Des Merveilles Bleue from Hermès (Christine Nagel; 2017)

Another Sixty Second Scents video review for you: Christine Nagel's Eau Des Merveilles Bleue for Hermès... complete with painful French pronunciation.

To view the video on the YouTube site, please click here.

Finally, to everyone celebrating Easter this weekend: may your feasting know no limits! Chocolate. Cakes. Sweets. Enjoy them all!


Friday, April 7, 2017

Persolaise Review: Pour Homme Parfum from Bottega Veneta (Daniela Andrier & Antoine Maisondieu; 2017)

I can't help but envy Italian men their sense of style. Yes, I know I'm making a generalisation as broad as the shoulders of Michelangelo's David, but spend a few minutes sipping an espresso in Verona and you start to believe that every single guy in the country is born reading a good grooming manual. Those bright red moccasins. The silk pocket square. A tangle of leather bracelets. Precision-cut facial hair. The pale yellow Lacoste jumper draped over a polo shirt. It's all so deliciously sprezzatura. This very particular masculine aesthetic - part nonchalant bear, part predatory tiger - has in recent years found expression in Daniela Andrier and Antoine Maisondieu's Pour Homme scents from Bottega Veneta. And although the initial version veered just a tiny bit too close to cardboard-cutout territory, its flankers have been more impressive, leaning away from the pseudo-citrus notes towards the leathers and the spices. That trend continues in this new 'Parfum' iteration (despite its name, it's an eau de parfum) which sees the tannery-centred base notes cling even closer to the wearer's skin. The trademark pine inflection is still present, but in this case, the sun has long set behind the trees, forcing one's gaze to pick out details in the dark: the undergrowth, the dying embers, the resinous vegetation releasing its scent into the sky. The effect is convincingly nocturnal, yet resolutely modern and urban... proving that even when he's shed the day clothes and slipped into his sleeping gear, our Italian gent never sacrifices the need for a high-quality fabric and some fine stitching

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Bottega Veneta in 2017.]


Friday, March 31, 2017

Persolaise Review: Superstitious from Editions De Parfums Frederic Malle & Alber Elbaz (Dominique Ropion; 2017)

Frederic Malle isn't letting go of his broad brush. In recent years, the perfumes emerging under his label (both pre and post-Lauder acquisition) have become more voluminous and more robust, to the extent that it's now hard to imagine him giving us something displaying the delicacy of, say, En Passant or L'Eau D'Hiver. Indeed his latest - Superstitious, composed by Dominique Ropion, as part of a collaboration between Malle and Alber Elbaz - could well be his largest yet. And yes, I know I make this claim about a collection which includes the likes of Carnal Flower and Portrait Of A Lady. But there's no denying the scale of this thing, because that is its chief strength and, arguably, its most problematic feature.

Monday, March 20, 2017

She's More Than Mum - Perfume Choices For Mother's Day 2017

It's all too easy to forget that before she had you, your mum had a life of her own. You may have grown used to seeing her just as the person who taught you how to tie your shoelaces, nagged you to tidy your room and gave you an endless hug when you had your heart broken. But there was a time when she had an identity that wasn't connected to yours in any way. She was a princess when she wanted to be, or an adventurer, or a dreamer, a planner, a party-animal, a culture-vulture, or a lover. All those facets of her personality are still in there, although they might not have many chances to show themselves these days. Perhaps they need a bit of a perfumed prompt to bring them out of hiding. After all, there's nothing better than fragrance to help us showcase different aspects of ourselves. So yes, although Mother's Day is the one day of the year when you thank your mum for being your mum, maybe the best way you can do that is to help her find those parts of herself she's long forgotten. Here are some scented recommendations to help you out, all of which have been released within the last 3 years, just to help you stay up-to-date.

Friday, March 17, 2017

Persolaise Review: Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme (Alberto Morillas; 2017)

Woah! Don't ever let me say that mainstream masculine scents can't be surprising any more. After years of fobbing us off with various editions of the amoeboid dross that is Guilty, Gucci's fragrance output seems to have had a sudden awakening recalling the heyday of the Tom Ford era. What's even more unexpected is that they've slotted it under the Guilty banner and simply called it Guilty Absolute Pour Homme. But make no mistake, this stuff warrants a name of its own. Like some rocket-fuelled thruster burning a swathe through a cypress forest, it burns with patchouli-heavy, petrol-soaked leather notes so incendiary, they must have caused the marketing bods at Gucci to weep into their velvet loafers. How did this whip-smacking beauty get past them? Who knows? But apparently, the newish director of the fashion line, Alessandro Michele, deserves some of the praise. According to the official press notes, he collaborated with Alberto Morillas to bring this unexpected composition to life, providing just the reminder the mainstream needs that no amount of focus group testing will ever replace lucid, artistic vision. Okay, maybe the flames in Absolute don't project far enough - a concession to the pleas of the loafer weepers? - but that's a small price to pay for a startling, impressively linear, long-lasting piece of work that throws down the gauntlet to all other comparable brands. I just hope it delivers the goods at the till, so that Michele is allowed to have his way with the rest of the collection.

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Gucci in 2017.]



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